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Custom dress shirts: all you need to know
June 8th, 2011Custom dress shirtsSolosso 0 Comments

You never think much of dress shirt anatomy when you rip it off in a huff after a long day.  However, once you have purchased your first custom dress shirt, presumably after landing the gig of a lifetime, you start to notice the little things.  Do you remember the feel of your first custom dress shirt and the custom dress shirts that followed?  Who knew life could be so comfortable?

The dress shirt should offer comfort and style at every angle and in every crevice.  Here are the seven parts of a dress shirt.  Understand the anatomy of a traditional business shirt will help you to make an informed selection.  Let’s start at the top and proceed to the bottom, you know, the typical London stock market experience.

Collar/Neck: At the top of the shirt, you have the neck and collar area.  This part of the shirt frames your neck.  It is your choice as to whether you want a spread collar, a long or short point collar, or any other variety of collar.  The collar cannot be underestimated, because this is the part of the shirt that truly accentuates your attractive facial features.  A good collar is why executives buy custom dress shirts in the first place!  Modern shirts feature removable collar stays, which can further help in styling and preservation.  Stainless steel collars are a superior option over plastic materials. All Solosso’s custom dress shirts, except for the button-down ones, come with quality stainless steel removable collar stays!

Custom dress shirt

Custom dress shirt

Steel collar stays

Steel collar stays

Mother of pearl buttons

Mother of pearl buttons

Buttons: These sewn-on fasteners slide through a buttonhole to secure your shirt.  There is no such thing as cheap buttons, not when you are shopping for a high-end dress shirt.  The quality of the buttons indicates the overall quality of the shirt.  The best buttons, hence the best custom dress shirts, have thick or triple stacked buttons.  Mother of Pearl buttons are also a popular selection.  Plastic discs tend to crack after only a few cleanings.

Sleeves: Long sleeve and short sleeve varieties exist, though business shirts are traditionally long-sleeves.  High quality shirts may also have gauntlet buttons, which provide a way for gents to easily roll up their sleeves and keep them neatly tucked.

Split Yoke: The split yoke is a feature in dress shirt anatomy, usually on tailor-made shirts, that adjusts a shirt’s fit on a gent’s build.  In the past, men could choose between a single or a split yoke, depending on their comfort level.  Today, most shirt yokes simply match patterns and are not custom-made.

Matching patterns: a sign of custom dress shirts

Matching patterns: a sign of custom dress shirts

Side Seam and Stitches: The seams are located at the side and usually feature single-needle stitching.  Higher quality shirts are sewn one side of the garment at a time.  The more stitches used in creating a shirt, the more durable it is expected to be.

Button down collar

Button down collar

Gusset/Tails: The gusset is triangular shaped material that is occasionally added to the area between the front and back of the shirt.  The gusset serves as a reinforcement area, as do longer tails in the back.  More shirt material helps thinner gents who want to tuck their shirts into their pants and not fuss with it all afternoon!

Gusset

Gusset

Cuff/Cuff Links: These fasteners are mainly for decorative purposes, and are often decorated or even monogrammed for aesthetic effect.  Shirts that have cufflinks also have buttonholes on both sides.  Shirts without cuff links have a button at the cuff as well as a chisel for your heel.  French cuffs are the bulkier choice.  These cuffs fasten with links and with anything from silk knots to gold pieces.

Cuff detail

Cuff

Fabric and Patterns: The fabric type as well as the thread count determines, comfort, quality and durability.  The highest thread counts in the industry are 180.  Usually, the higher the grade, the softer and “silkier” the shirt you can expect.  However, the softer shirts wear out faster than the heavier shirts.  Linen and Egyptian two-ply cotton are the most preferred materials for custom dress shirts.  Lastly, you want your shirt to have a perfectly matching pattern, whether in striped or checked materials.

Custom dress shirts fabrics

Custom dress shirts fabrics

Learning more about custom dress shirts anatomy reveals some crucial elements for choosing the right dress or business shirt.  When you choose your custom dress shirts, you can customise every part of the shirt to your high standards!

Apply what you have just learned about custom dress shirts and try to design your own bespoke dress shirt from Solosso now!

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